Fair Isle is a windswept island half way between the Shetlands and the Orkneys. It has given its name to a particular style and range of pattern design knit that is unique to the island. Although many of the patterns did not originate on the island itself, and could well have come from a number of different areas of Europe, particularly parts of Scandinavia in which Fair Isle and the Shetlands share a long cultural history, more so even than that shared with Scotland, the patterns were incorporated and modified and even transformed by the Fair Isle knitters. It many ways, could be said that they made the adopted design work an intrinsic part of their own cultural history and heritage.
It is unclear as to exactly how the knit pattern designs arrived on the island, but it is assumed that many of the patterns were imported by both the Shetlanders themselves, many of whom were seafarers and traders, as well as outside traders.
The pattern work is usually restricted to geometric bands that run horizontally, rather like some of the woven border work found in Norway, hence the theory that much of the work could have derived initially from across the North Sea. The pattern work very often takes note of a relatively strict form of symmetry. There was also originally a limited colour palette of browns and greys due to the natural colouring of Fair Isle sheep.
Fair Isle is traditionally knitted in the round with wool from locally raised flocks of hardy sheep, using two threads of yarn while knitting. This, in practical terms meant that knitwear was both thick, very often nearly waterproof, and had no seams. This hardiness gave the Fair Isle knit a wide popularity within the Shetlands, where by the end of the nineteenth century it had become part of the larger Shetland identity.
By the twentieth century, Fair Isle knitwear designs had spread much further afield and drifted in and out of fashion throughout the century. By the end of the century pattern forms that had originally had nothing to do with either Fair Isle or the Shetlands, were being dubbed as Fair Isle. In one respect this general expansion and popularisation of the name and brand that is Fair Isle has kept the identity of the island very much alive. However, on the other hand the expanding horizons of the style, incorporating all sorts of design work that bears no reference to any cultural or craft tradition of the island or any of the other islands that make up the Shetlands, ultimately devalues the name, the brand and the culture.
Probably the best Fair Isle work would have been the earliest, as the pattern work would have been more succinct and probably more immediately connected to its origin and also to the culture that had adopted it. The colour palette would also have been more in keeping with the natural tones of the island and the flocks of sheep that were natively raised. Having said that, Fair Isle today is keen to keep hold of its traditions and natural culture that it has built up over the generations. The Fair Isle website promotes a number of arts and craft mediums including traditional knitting, and as long as the island itself is aware of what makes a Fair Isle pattern unique and special, then the cultural craft is in good hands.
The books used for illustration purposes for this article, can all be bought on Amazon.
Further reading
links:Fair Isle Website
Traditional Fair Isle Knitting
Alice Starmore's Book of Fair Isle Knitting
The Harmony Guide to Aran and Fair Isle Knitting: Patterns, Techniques, and Stitches (The Harmony Guides)
Fearless Fair Isle Knitting: 30 Gorgeous Original Sweaters, Socks, Mittens, and More
The Art of Fair Isle Knitting: History, Technique, Color & Patterns
The Complete Book of Traditional Fair Isle Knitting
Fair Isle Knitting
Fair Isle Knitting Patterns: Reproducing the Known Work of Robert Williamson
New Directions in Fair Isle Knitting
Knitting Fair Isle Mittens & Gloves: 40 Great-Looking Designs
A Practical Handbook of Traditional Designs: Fair Isle Knitting
Michael Pearson's Traditional Knitting: Aran, Fair Isle, and Fisher Ganseys
