Illustration: Russian cross stitch design.
Most human cultures across the planet, including that of the Slavic, tend to use red for the same basic and original intention. Red is the same colour of blood and therefore since the beginning of human culture it has come to be associated literally with the lifeblood and through association, with that of the lifeforce.
In the broad geographical and cultural area that made up the homeland of the Slavs, red was very much used in the tradition of protection, particularly against various human diseases and ailments. Clothing very often contained borders at collar, sleeve and ankle areas which were often heavily embroidered, with red being the predominant colour. This was originally believed to stop, or at least give partial protection, against evil spirits in the shape of some of the most rampant and vociferous diseases that regularly swept through Europe. The borders were meant to stop these malevolent spirit diseases from entering the body at what were considered particularly vulnerable points, mainly at the extremities of the body.
Illustration: Satellite map of Belarus in winter.
Many of the embroidered patterns that make up the borders of clothing originally contained a number of talismans and charms that were sewn onto, or even into, the embroidery pattern, rather like simplified Shamen costumes. Eventually these talismans were left out of the embroidery work, with the talismans becoming part of the actual sewn decorative pattern. These talisman marks and motifs became integral parts of a number of classic design pieces and many of them, though having lost much if not all, of their original protective meaning and separate identity, are still very much part of traditional embroidery across the Slavic region.
Illustration: Example of Ukrainian embroidery.
One of the interesting added uses of red in Western Slavic culture as opposed to that of Russian Slavs, while still following the general idea of protection against illness and misfortune, dealt with some of the more specific details of protection against individual witches and witchcraft in general. The belief would have originated within Pagan Eastern Europe, but would have inevitably crossed over into the Christian era and therefore religious symbols would have been added to and incorporated into the older symbols, adding to the vocabulary dealing with protection for the individual, whether child, pregnant mother, or household. Many of these symbols whether Christian, Pagan or a combination of both would still have been outlined or even predominantly coloured in red.
Illutration: Example of Ukrainian embroidery.
Red was also used domestically and could be seen in both elaborate red embroidery pattern work, whether all over or within a border. Often the presence of red would be within a much simpler context, as in a red line passing through tea towels, tablecloths etc. However, whether simple line or elaborate embroidery pattern, the inference was still the same, protection of the individual or household against the many unexplained and disturbing illnesses that were so much a part of life before twentieth century medicine.
Illustration: Ukrainian woman's embroidered apron.
It is interesting to note how much of the purpose and traditional ideas behind red embroidery are now long lost and forgotten. However, the idea of using red within traditional clothing is still that of a living tradition within national costume. The use of red, even as a line in a contemporary tea towel within a modern domestic interior, continues within cultures and people that have no idea of the original significance and importance that many people grew to rely on. The hopes and fears of generations of individuals accepted and relied on the power of that red line.
Further reading links:Embroidered Textiles: A World Guide to Traditional Patterns
Embroidery: Traditional Designs, Techniques, and Patterns from All over the World
Russian and Other Slavic Embroidery Designs
Russian Punchneedle Embroidery
Russian Embroidery and Lace
La Broderie Russe Ancienne (Ancient Russian Embroidery)
Early Russian Embroidery in the Zagorsk Museum Collection
Russian Embroidery Book
Russian Embroidery 17th-Early 20th Centuries
RUSSIAN EMBROIDERY: TRADITIONAL MOTIFS
Ancient Russian Ecclesiastical Embroideries
Antique Russian Embroidery
Ukrainian embroidery
Ukrainian Drawn Thread Embroidery: Merezhka Poltavaska
Ukrainian Embroidery Techniques
Ukrainian embroideries from collection and designs of Maria Kutsenko
Ukrainian Embroidery Designs and Stitches
Ukrainian Bukovinian Cross-Stitch Embroidery
Ukrainian Folk Embroidery: Techniques, Methodology, Methods
